Preparing for your kitty's spay/neuter operation

If you're like me, you're preparing for your kitty's surgery with some anxiety. When you love your pets, you truly do feel the weight of responsibility for decisions you make about their health!

Fortunately, there is no need to worry. If you haven't already, you should receive instructions from your vet on how long your kitty should fast, etc. The following tips will minimize the stress you and your kitties feel during the process.

BEFORE the surgery:
The single most stressful part of the experience for my kitties was the noisy waiting room. So many scents! Big dogs barking! Luckily, my husband came with, and actually stayed outside with the kitties in their carrier until their names were called. If you don't have a friend who can come with, check in at the desk and let the staff know that you and the kitties will be waiting outside. This also minimizes their exposure to disease, since the waiting room is shared by sick pets.

AFTER the surgery:
Expect that your girl will take longer to recover than your boy. For boys, the surgery is a snap, and my little guy was running around playing later the same day. My girl, on the other hand, was in obvious pain, and had a hard time walking. Accept pain medication for your girl--she will probably need it. However, within a week my girlie was back to her normal self.

The other thing to prepare for is her appearance. My girl is a lightweight--she's pretty slender, and so the removal of her reproductive organs actually made her noticeably thinner! That was a bit shocking, but eventually the "meat on her bones" redistributed, so not to worry.

Truly, truly do keep in mind that you are doing the absolutely best thing for your babies. They will have much more comfortable lives, will be in less danger of certain cancers, and will not encounter the risks inherent to cats who mate. Good for you for doing this for them!

Post Script: For warning signs to watch for regarding adverse reactions to anesthesia, check out Kayte's comment on this post.

How to introduce a new kitty to your cats

First: make sure all the cats are fixed! Introductions can really go awry if one or more of the cats have behavioral problems associated with being "intact" (plus, you don't want anyone getting pregnant!)

Next, the way you introduce the cats is really important. Start by putting your already-established kitty in a seperate but adjoining room to the new kitty (don't put new kitty in your established kitty's favorite room--she will feel displaced and jealous). They will most likely pick up on each other's scent, and may play with each other's paws under the door. Having them in the same house but different rooms triggers curiousity, while keeping the perceived threat-level down.

Keep a seperate litterbox, food, water, and something to scratch in the room where the new kitty is kept.

Also, rub each cat down with a towel, and place that towel in the other cats' room. This allows them to get used to each others' scent. They will also smell each other on you if you pet each frequently.

After they have discovered each other's presence, wait about 24 hours, then crack open the door between them. Let them make face-to-face introductions at their own pace. Make sure you are PRESENT when this happens, because even with this gradual introduction, they may become aggressive toward each other.

At the first meeting, give extra special attention and love to your established kitty. Don't pet new kitty or give her attention. It's likely that established kitty is already feeling territorial, and if she finds "her person" fawning over an intruder, it will just add to her negative feelings about this new family member.

Have a tin can (like a soda can) filled with coins, and taped shut, ready for their first face-to-face meeting. If any violence erupts, throw the can near the fighting kitties (not at them!). The sound will scare them and break up the fight so that you can get them to their respective areas of the house again--behind closed doors.

If there is violence at the first meeting, keep them in their seperate areas of the house for longer, and then try the gradual introductions again. They may never quite get along, but they will eventually learn to tolerate each other.

On the other hand, they may tolerate or even like each other after that first meeting--in which case, congratulations!

How to train a new kitty to use the litterbox

Chances are, you might have found my blog through Yahoo! Answers. I enjoy contributing answers to cat-related questions. My expertise is in cat psychology/behavior/training, so from time to time I will post here answers I've given that have seemed to hit the spot!

First, and most importantly, put kitty in a bathroom with food, water, something to scratch, and the litterbox. You can also add a soft place for her to sleep, but take care that she doesn't use it as her toilet! Keep food/water/scratching post/bed far away from the litterbox. Make sure to remove anything else that's on the floor/anything breakable from bathtub our countertop, and close the toilet lid. If you have a shower curtain, remove it or loop it over the curtain rod, out of reach from kitty.

It's a good idea when introducing a kitty to her new home, to start her out in a very small room, such as a bathroom. She's terrified, presumably because she's in a totally new space, and your house is uber-big to her (even if not to you!). It sounds mean to keep a kitty in a small room, but it's actually very calming, because there is a finite amount of space to explore and become accustomed to. Spend lot's of time with her in there, so that she gets used to you, and has company.

In a bathroom, the litterbox will likely be the most attractive place to use the potty (linoleum/tile is no fun!). If she does use the bathroom outside the litterbox, pick her up (hopefully interrupting her potty-time) and put her in the litterbox. Any time she goes in the litterbox, give her a treat. And any time she scratches on the scratching post, give her a treat. Don't give her a treat at any other time--really let her come to associate treats with the behaviors you want.

Keep her in the bathroom for at least 24 hours (again, with frequent visits from you). After 24 hours has passed, leave the door cracked open, and let her explore the rest of the house in little excursions. After she's had a little time to explore, always put her back in the bathroom.

After about a week of this, you may see that she is becoming more and more comfortable with the rest of the house. Leave everything she needs in the bathroom for a little while longer, so that she doesn't get disoriented.

Eventually, you can start putting water/food/scratching post where you would actually like them to be in the house, but keep re-filling her food and water in the bathroom until you know she's found the other place you are putting out food and water for her.

What a comfort!

I've just been reflecting on my life, "pre-kitties" and now. Here are some of my favorite things about having feline members of the family:

* "Home alone" is never truly home alone!

* Vespers' favorite napping spot is on the same couch I inhabit while studying. It's a comfort to sense his fluffy grey presence right next to me.

* Having animals in the house reminds me that I too am an animal. I have a tendency to stay in my mind, thinking abstract thoughts...out of touch with the instinct to eat, play, stretch. My kitty companions are good reminders to be in my body.

* Having two little friends who trust me utterly, look to me for both cuddles and sustinance, and believe always that I am good is tremendously heartening!

* There is always a soft little bundle lying about who enjoys being stroked and lovingly talked to.

Mmmmm. What a life with these two precious creatures!

Sweet Spots

How does your kitty love to be cuddled, stroked or tickled? I am still finding new "bliss spots" that my cats love. Here's a list of their favorites:

• Neck massages
• Armpit massages (who knew?)
• Chest massages, segwaying to under-chin rubs
• Gently rubbing the base of their ear, under their fur
• Jagged strokes down the back with my fingertips (down, then up a hair, then down again)
• Lifting the skin on the scruff of the neck and shoulders and rubbing
• Light belly rubs
• Stroking the face with cupped hand, from nose to neck

What are some of your kitty's favorites?

Tips for Managing "Bossy"

Does your cat's assertiveness border on domineering? Does she bully the other animals in your household? Is he so demanding that you find yourself frustrated and annoyed?

If your answers to the Kitty Personality Quiz: Confidence (posted Sunday, Feb 1, 2009) were "(a)" or above, you might find that your kitty's personality is getting in the way of connection. Here are some tips for managing your over-confident cat.

Consistency
Your feline may seem to have a short-term memory, but when it comes to remembering how she won a battle of wills, cats have "elephant" memories. Remember that one time that you let her eat off your plate / lounge on the counter / meow until you gave her a treat? Your cat will never forget it. Keeping rules consistent minimizes behavior problems, though admittedly, not even consistency will create a kitty who always obeys all the rules. Allowing her to badger you into giving her what she wants or the relaxing rules just sets up a precident that she can win if she sticks to it long enough. Consistency, consistency, consistency!

Wear him out
My boy kitty, Vespers, is an alpha-personality. Though not pack animals like dogs, cats that live together will develop a social heirarchy. When the toys come out, Vespers becomes uncharictaristically aggressive toward Emily, my little calico. He growls when she approaches the toy, and does not mind landing on her when taking a flying leap. If I spend a good few minutes at the beginning of play giving him a good workout, he wears out a little, and that gives Emily room to participate.

Be the Alpha: Discipine
Speaking of the social heirarchy within a household, did you know that you are part of it too? Your kitty either sees you as ultimately in charge, or a submissive animal who she can boss around. Yes, you feed her, scoop her litter, and provide a home for her, but from her perspective, you may not truly be in charge.

Setting limits is essential to being recognized as the alpha-animal in the household. Are there surfaces in the house you prefer kitty not to be on? Are there behaviors that you don't find acceptable? Having a consistent (there's that word again) way to communicate "You've crossed a line!" is vital.

I know some kitty households that use a clap, hiss, or a snap of the fingers to communicate "No!". My brother in law gently taps his kitty's forehead, which startles rather than hurts her. My husband and I agreed from the outset that a sharp "No!" accompanied by a finger snap would be our consistent way to set limits with our kitties.

Unfortunately, Emily and Vespers sometimes get out of the habit of heeding our "No!" and finger snap. When that happens, it's necessary to create an unpleasant experience for them to associate with the verbal reprimand. Let me be clear: the unpleasant experience you choose for your disobedient kitty should be above all SAFE, and secondly--you guessed it, consistent.

We've chosen to spritz the offending cat with water from a spray bottle when "No!" is not enough. When we do this, we still give a sharp "No!' with finger snap, immediately followed by a spritz from the bottle (which I have hidden behind my back--stay tuned for why). After a few experiences with this sequence, our cats come to expect the spritz when they hear the "No!", and immediately amend their behavior. Even when I'm not carrying the spritz bottle, I keep my hand behind my back to give the appearance that it is there.

Tips for Drawing Out "Bashful"

My little calico, Emily, leans toward the shy end of the "confidence" spectrum. In her loving home environment she is a secure and fairly confident kitty, but her natural temperment falls in the "(b)" range of the answers in my quiz, Kitty Personality Quiz: Confidence (posted Sunday, Feb 1, 2009). It can be a challenge to connect with Emily, and has taken much patience and trial-and-error, for Emily has distinct preferences for how to, and how not to, interact.

Learn her preferences
For example, I've learned over time that Emily is not a lap cat, nor does she prefer to be held. My little girl likes to be very firmly stroked down the back, sometimes in a jagged, back-and-forth motion. She also loves having her face stroked, nose to ears. It's taken me a lot of time and unfruitful tries to figure out the kind of "cuddling" she prefers.

Take advantage of down-time
If your kitty is cuddle-resistant, approach her when she is asleep or resting. Lightly brush her whiskers to let her know that you are there, then gently stroke her neck, her back--explore what keeps her relaxing vs. what distrupts her restful mood. Cuddling with sleeping cats might not feel like much connection, but for an animal so finely-tuned for survival, allowing contact while sleeping--well, that's trust, and goes a long way toward bonding.

Play!
Another effective way to draw out a bashful cat and help him become comfortable with you is to entice him with play. Dangling a toy object of prey from a string and dragging it in jerks along the floor is nearly irresistable to even a shy kitty. Over time, bring the toy "prey" closer to you so that kitty becomes used to being near you, or even jumping on your lap to reach the object that is just out of reach! If your kitty is especially shy, look in the other direction while you tempt her with a dangling cat toy.

There are those cats who are either feral or traumatized, and thus may not become more comfortable with you via the means described above. The options available in that situation are beyond my scope, but many helpful experts have websites, books and even consulting services for just such difficult circumstances.

Kitty Personality Quiz: Confidence

1. When visitors come over, your kitty...
a) rushes to check them out.
b) hangs back, watching every move.
c) hides under the bed.

2. If another animal is present, your kitty...
a) stands her ground, growling.
b) takes her time getting acquainted, but with obvious interest.
c) stands down, usually running away.

3. When you approach your kitty, he generally...
a) actively greets you, or stays put and let's you pet him.
b) tolerates interaction, but on his own timetable.
c) appears frightened and shies away.

As with humans, there are infinite compenents of feline personality. One of the most readily obvious traits is how confident kitty is. Cats vary from swaggeringly self-assured to extremely timid and unable to tolerate interaction. Of course, any one cat can display both ends of the spectrum in different moods and situations, but think about your cat's overall personality as you consider the above questions. How your cat behaves in relationship to you, other animals and strangers (or people she rarely sees) is a good indicator of her overall confidence level.

Your kitty's degree of self-assurance may delight or frustrate you. You might have expected a inquisitive and friendly little friend, and wound up with a timid, shy recluse. Or, you may have wanted some unobtrusive background company at home, and ended up with an assertive, demanding little personality! It's important to recognize and respect your cat's unique temperment. Within the context of such respect, there are techniques you may use for making your secure cat less cocky (see Tips for Managing "Bossy" ), or your withdrawn cat more interactive (see Tips For Drawing Out Bashful).

Let Kitty Know You're There

Even the most secure, confident cat is...well, skittish. Our feline friends are by nature sensitive to miniscule changes in the environment, and are programmed to react for their own protection. I noticed that when I approached to pet my boy kitty, Vespers, while he was napping, even the most gentle touch of my hand startled him.

The answer was simple: Whiskers! A light brush against Kitty's whiskers let's him know that something is in his immediate proximity, without triggering the defense response. Now, when I want to pet my napping Vespers, I first brush my hand lightly against his whiskers (or sometimes the fine hairs of his longish coat). Then, when I stroke his back or give him a light neck massage, he's been properly prepared for contact and doesn't even open his eyes.