Cats are famous creatures of habit, and their responses to change vary from curious to frightened. When rearranging furniture, first and foremost make sure that they are out of harm's way. Some cats love following you as you move around the room, so make sure that they don't get stepped on or stuck. For small kittens, enclosing them in a separate room with food, water, litter box ,and something to scratch is a good idea.
The items of furniture that will affect your kitty most in the move are those that she depends upon . . . scratching post, bed, kitty tower, favorite perch, and of course food and water bowls. If you are able, transitioning these items slowly from their original spot to their new place is easier on the feline members of your family. Move the item a yard or two away, so that your cat easily find it when he goes to its familiar spot. A day or so later, move it another yard.
What happens when items are moved abruptly? For a while, kitty may go to the old spot, and then experience confusion when the expected item is not there. In the case of the litter box, your cat might decide that, litter box or no, that spot is for relieving himself! To avoid unwanted gifts on the carpet, move the litter box gradually.
Sunday, September 13, 2009
Thursday, June 18, 2009
Does your cat speak English?
On or about day #2 of Maddie's residence with us, I gave her a little toy mouse to play with. She began to prance and bat in a joyous and dainty way; but after a few seconds paused and searched my face earnestly. I said, in my most supportive, cuddly voice, "It's ok! You can play!", and she promptly resumed her little mouse dance. This little sequence happened about five time in a row, before Maddie was sufficiently reassured that playing was honestly, truly allowed. Each time, I encouraged her to keep playing, and each time, she did.
I drew from this the logical conclusion that Maddie knows English. I then began to wonder if my other two cats are also fluent.
Emily, I fear, comprehends broken English, at best. She frequently leaves when I tell her to come, and gives me blank looks when I encourage her to cuddle. Vespers, on the other hand, normally understands the call to cuddle, best given by cupping his face gently in my hands, gazing lovingly into his eyes, and saying, "Howsabout a little cuddle?". Of course, he might be responding to the body language and the tone of my voice, but good enough.
I drew from this the logical conclusion that Maddie knows English. I then began to wonder if my other two cats are also fluent.
Emily, I fear, comprehends broken English, at best. She frequently leaves when I tell her to come, and gives me blank looks when I encourage her to cuddle. Vespers, on the other hand, normally understands the call to cuddle, best given by cupping his face gently in my hands, gazing lovingly into his eyes, and saying, "Howsabout a little cuddle?". Of course, he might be responding to the body language and the tone of my voice, but good enough.
Saturday, June 13, 2009
Miracle Maddie
Our household has a new feline member. Maddie Matins literally crossed my path on June 2nd, when all two pounds of her streaked out onto the road in front of the car ahead of me. The car swerved, but I watched her little left hind leg go under the tire. I came to a stop; she limped away to the bush-adorned island in the middle of the street.
Fast forward now, through me parking my car in the middle of the street, encountering a police officer who insists that I move my car, and my request that the police officer stay and watch for the kitten while I move my car. He agreed, I moved the car, and returned to search among the foliage.
About seven minutes later (which felt like forty while cars honked at me as I fruitlessly peered through the bushes for the little escape artist) I found her. I had grabbed my jacket from my trunk, to capture her safely like the good rabies-conscious citizen I am. I could see her, but there was no way for me to get hold of her through the bush branches with anything but my bare hands. After a millisecond’s hesitation, I went for it bare-handed. I cuddled her against my chest, and she did not resist. I consider it a cosmic moment: I chose to trust her, and she chose to trust me.
I checked her over and miraculously did not see any injury.
Fast forward again through driving her to work (I was on lunch break), getting her situated in a cardboard file box, and begging some chicken and milk for her from the restaurant downstairs. During this time, I called my husband to tell him that I was bringing a stray kitten home. Once resuscitated, he rose to the occasion.
We sneaked her past my two one year-old kitties (my children, the loves of my life) and settled Maddie in the room we use as a home office.
From the beginning, this new family member has been an absolute cuddle-bum. For the first couple days, she stayed under the bed like the traumatized baby cat she is. However, whenever I reached under to pull her out, she half-heartedly dragged her claws through the carpet in protest while PURRING ecstatically! This girl LOVES contact. She is a lap cat, a chest cat, a lay-by-your-side and purr cat.
We did eventually find that Maddie’s left hind leg was slightly swollen and bruised. One vet trip later, the x-rays had confirmed No Broken Bones. Amazing.
Maddie got her name the night I brought her home. I lay in bed, searching for a fit name. Inspired my by baby boy Vespers (Latin for “Evening Prayer”), I hit on “Matins” (Lt. “Morning Prayer”). It was hopeful, promising, optimistic. Thus she is “Maddie Matins”, the Morning Prayer I encountered on a Tuesday afternoon.
Fast forward now, through me parking my car in the middle of the street, encountering a police officer who insists that I move my car, and my request that the police officer stay and watch for the kitten while I move my car. He agreed, I moved the car, and returned to search among the foliage.
About seven minutes later (which felt like forty while cars honked at me as I fruitlessly peered through the bushes for the little escape artist) I found her. I had grabbed my jacket from my trunk, to capture her safely like the good rabies-conscious citizen I am. I could see her, but there was no way for me to get hold of her through the bush branches with anything but my bare hands. After a millisecond’s hesitation, I went for it bare-handed. I cuddled her against my chest, and she did not resist. I consider it a cosmic moment: I chose to trust her, and she chose to trust me.
I checked her over and miraculously did not see any injury.
Fast forward again through driving her to work (I was on lunch break), getting her situated in a cardboard file box, and begging some chicken and milk for her from the restaurant downstairs. During this time, I called my husband to tell him that I was bringing a stray kitten home. Once resuscitated, he rose to the occasion.
We sneaked her past my two one year-old kitties (my children, the loves of my life) and settled Maddie in the room we use as a home office.
From the beginning, this new family member has been an absolute cuddle-bum. For the first couple days, she stayed under the bed like the traumatized baby cat she is. However, whenever I reached under to pull her out, she half-heartedly dragged her claws through the carpet in protest while PURRING ecstatically! This girl LOVES contact. She is a lap cat, a chest cat, a lay-by-your-side and purr cat.
We did eventually find that Maddie’s left hind leg was slightly swollen and bruised. One vet trip later, the x-rays had confirmed No Broken Bones. Amazing.
Maddie got her name the night I brought her home. I lay in bed, searching for a fit name. Inspired my by baby boy Vespers (Latin for “Evening Prayer”), I hit on “Matins” (Lt. “Morning Prayer”). It was hopeful, promising, optimistic. Thus she is “Maddie Matins”, the Morning Prayer I encountered on a Tuesday afternoon.
Saturday, April 11, 2009
Prepping for vacation without kitty
Unlike dogs, most cats do not enjoy a change of scenery--so we tend to leave our beloved pets behind when we go on vacation. If your kitty is social and connective, then it's important to plan for more than her physical needs while you're away.
Luckily, cats don't need the constant supervision that their more rambunctious canine counterparts do. However, a kitty who is used to lots of petting and love, or a regular playtime, will truly benefit from having those needs met while you're away. Even felines who appear aloof and disinterested experience stress when their human is inexplicably absent.
Put some forethought into who you will ask to care for your pet. Calling upon someone who likes cats is imperative; someone who has experience with their own kitties is preferable. Think of what a difference it will make if the person who cares for your cat is someone they already know! Review the people who often come over...who is your pet familiar with?
Next, try to create a schedule of care with the pet-sitter that gives your cat daily human contact. It can be tempting to ask only for ever-other-day care, but if your kitty is used to your presence every day, it will be frightening and disorienting to go for long without human contact. Not wanting to overburden any one friend, my husband and I usually split our cats' care between two or more parties.
Also consider the time of day that you have the most contact with your kitty. Cats are creatures of routine and habit. It can't hurt to ask whether your sitter is free to visit during the hours that your cat has come to expect companionship.
Leave your sitter with instructions. Make sure they know where to find supplies like food and treats, and already know where to find kitty's water/food bowls and litter boxes. We take this a step farther by posting written instructions that include special considerations for our cats' lifestyles. Make sure to include directions on where to find cat toys so that kitty gets his playtime.
My husband and I try to make our home a welcoming environment before we leave, so that our sitter will feel comfortable relaxing and "just hanging out" with our cats. We are blessed with good friends who know how much we care about our pets, and take the time to interact and play with them while we are away.
Upon returning, try to remember that your cat is craving her regular routine. She may greet you rapturously, skittishly or disdainfully, but she is glad you're finally home!
Luckily, cats don't need the constant supervision that their more rambunctious canine counterparts do. However, a kitty who is used to lots of petting and love, or a regular playtime, will truly benefit from having those needs met while you're away. Even felines who appear aloof and disinterested experience stress when their human is inexplicably absent.
Put some forethought into who you will ask to care for your pet. Calling upon someone who likes cats is imperative; someone who has experience with their own kitties is preferable. Think of what a difference it will make if the person who cares for your cat is someone they already know! Review the people who often come over...who is your pet familiar with?
Next, try to create a schedule of care with the pet-sitter that gives your cat daily human contact. It can be tempting to ask only for ever-other-day care, but if your kitty is used to your presence every day, it will be frightening and disorienting to go for long without human contact. Not wanting to overburden any one friend, my husband and I usually split our cats' care between two or more parties.
Also consider the time of day that you have the most contact with your kitty. Cats are creatures of routine and habit. It can't hurt to ask whether your sitter is free to visit during the hours that your cat has come to expect companionship.
Leave your sitter with instructions. Make sure they know where to find supplies like food and treats, and already know where to find kitty's water/food bowls and litter boxes. We take this a step farther by posting written instructions that include special considerations for our cats' lifestyles. Make sure to include directions on where to find cat toys so that kitty gets his playtime.
My husband and I try to make our home a welcoming environment before we leave, so that our sitter will feel comfortable relaxing and "just hanging out" with our cats. We are blessed with good friends who know how much we care about our pets, and take the time to interact and play with them while we are away.
Upon returning, try to remember that your cat is craving her regular routine. She may greet you rapturously, skittishly or disdainfully, but she is glad you're finally home!
Thursday, March 19, 2009
How to tell if your cat is sick or in pain
As pet parents, it can be perplexing to try to interpret whether kitty is not feeling well. Here are some tips to keep in mind:
1. Cats are not likely to vocalize (meow, whimper, etc.) when they are in pain unless you are making direct contact with a wound or broken bone. In the wild, an animal who is obviously hurt or weakened is easy prey, so (unfortunately for the human-pet relationship) it is instinctual for cats to try to hide any disadvantage.
Rather than give a vocal cue that she is hurt or ill, your kitty is more likely to withdraw. Isolating or hiding can be cues that something is wrong, if the behaviors are out of character.
2. Watch your kitty's sense of balance. Normally agile, if your cat's sense of balance is not up to its usual standard, pay attention.
3. Listlessness can be another cue that something is wrong. Try engaging kitty in his favorite kind of play. If he is half-hearted or easily tired, it may be a sign.
4. Some cats will purr if excessively frightened or in pain. It seems to be a self-soothing mechanism when in distress. If you know that all is not well, yet your cat is purring, this may be the cause.
Any time you are worried about your kitty's health, bring her to the veterinarian you trust!
1. Cats are not likely to vocalize (meow, whimper, etc.) when they are in pain unless you are making direct contact with a wound or broken bone. In the wild, an animal who is obviously hurt or weakened is easy prey, so (unfortunately for the human-pet relationship) it is instinctual for cats to try to hide any disadvantage.
Rather than give a vocal cue that she is hurt or ill, your kitty is more likely to withdraw. Isolating or hiding can be cues that something is wrong, if the behaviors are out of character.
2. Watch your kitty's sense of balance. Normally agile, if your cat's sense of balance is not up to its usual standard, pay attention.
3. Listlessness can be another cue that something is wrong. Try engaging kitty in his favorite kind of play. If he is half-hearted or easily tired, it may be a sign.
4. Some cats will purr if excessively frightened or in pain. It seems to be a self-soothing mechanism when in distress. If you know that all is not well, yet your cat is purring, this may be the cause.
Any time you are worried about your kitty's health, bring her to the veterinarian you trust!
Friday, March 13, 2009
What to do about scratching and biting
First, start by clipping kitty's nails. You can buy clippers made for cats at your local pet store (don't use human nail clippers--they will cause splintering). Be very careful when clipping--look closely at your cat's nails and find the pink vein that runs through the lower half of the nail. Make sure you are clipping ABOVE the vein--actually clipping the vein will be very painful for your kitty and cause bleeding.
Next, it's important to disengage from the cat the minute she bites or starts using her claws on you. When she uses her nails on you, say "No!" firmly and walk away--ignore her. She will slowly learn that using her nails means the end of attention.
Also, examine the ways she is being played with. Does she get over-stimulated? She might be overwhelmed by the play and be scratching as a defense response, even though you don't mean her any harm. Watch to see what she does right before she scratches...do her ears go back? Does she pause? Does she wiggle around? Once you know the warning signs, back off before she feels the need to scratch.
Lastly, does she have places in the house she is allowed to scratch? A scratching post? Scratching pad? If not, keep trying until you hit on something she enjoys scratching, and is allowed to scratch. Cats need to scratch to shed the outer shucks of their nails.
Next, it's important to disengage from the cat the minute she bites or starts using her claws on you. When she uses her nails on you, say "No!" firmly and walk away--ignore her. She will slowly learn that using her nails means the end of attention.
Also, examine the ways she is being played with. Does she get over-stimulated? She might be overwhelmed by the play and be scratching as a defense response, even though you don't mean her any harm. Watch to see what she does right before she scratches...do her ears go back? Does she pause? Does she wiggle around? Once you know the warning signs, back off before she feels the need to scratch.
Lastly, does she have places in the house she is allowed to scratch? A scratching post? Scratching pad? If not, keep trying until you hit on something she enjoys scratching, and is allowed to scratch. Cats need to scratch to shed the outer shucks of their nails.
Monday, March 2, 2009
Thinking like a cat: Petting & grooming
A big part of connection with our kitties is knowing how they think. For example, I've come across some pet owners who haven't yet developed a "petting rapport" with their cats. No matter where they stroke their kitty, it seems to irritate rather than soothe. So how do you create or improve your "petting connection" with your cat?
Think about a cat's earliest experiences with contact--it came in the form of being groomed by his mamma. Most cats love quick, firm strokes all over their body, which remind them of their mother's tongue cleaning them. My little calico, Emily, loves it when I use a jagged motion down her back with my nails. My long-haired Nebelung, Vespers, likes it when I gently pull on tufts of his thick coat--it feels like mamma's tongue lifting his fur with her licks.
If you have a hard time brushing your long-haired cat, it may be because you are using long strokes that feel foreign to her. Instead, try using very short brush strokes all over her body with a slicker brush (a brush with dozens of very thin wire bristles). Likely you will hear her start purring as she is taken back to her experiences of being cared for as a kitten.
Now let's talk about your kitty's favorite spots to be rubbed or scratched. Again, begin by thinking like a cat...in the wild, a cat marks its territory and its cat-friends with its scent. A kitty's pheremones are concentrated around his lips, cheeks, neck and tail. This is why you may often see your cat rubbing her face on your carpet or door frames. And, since you are undoubtedly her property as well, she wants to smell her familiar scent on you!
Most cats love being rubbed about the neck and cheeks. Some love it when you draw a line with your finger on the fur above their upper lip, nose to ear. Whenever I stroke my kitties' backs, the pressure of my hand gets firmer as I reach the place their back meets their tails. You can tell kitty loves his when she lifts her rear to make the pressure even firmer.
Think about a cat's earliest experiences with contact--it came in the form of being groomed by his mamma. Most cats love quick, firm strokes all over their body, which remind them of their mother's tongue cleaning them. My little calico, Emily, loves it when I use a jagged motion down her back with my nails. My long-haired Nebelung, Vespers, likes it when I gently pull on tufts of his thick coat--it feels like mamma's tongue lifting his fur with her licks.
If you have a hard time brushing your long-haired cat, it may be because you are using long strokes that feel foreign to her. Instead, try using very short brush strokes all over her body with a slicker brush (a brush with dozens of very thin wire bristles). Likely you will hear her start purring as she is taken back to her experiences of being cared for as a kitten.
Now let's talk about your kitty's favorite spots to be rubbed or scratched. Again, begin by thinking like a cat...in the wild, a cat marks its territory and its cat-friends with its scent. A kitty's pheremones are concentrated around his lips, cheeks, neck and tail. This is why you may often see your cat rubbing her face on your carpet or door frames. And, since you are undoubtedly her property as well, she wants to smell her familiar scent on you!
Most cats love being rubbed about the neck and cheeks. Some love it when you draw a line with your finger on the fur above their upper lip, nose to ear. Whenever I stroke my kitties' backs, the pressure of my hand gets firmer as I reach the place their back meets their tails. You can tell kitty loves his when she lifts her rear to make the pressure even firmer.
Sunday, February 22, 2009
Preparing for your kitty's spay/neuter operation
If you're like me, you're preparing for your kitty's surgery with some anxiety. When you love your pets, you truly do feel the weight of responsibility for decisions you make about their health!
Fortunately, there is no need to worry. If you haven't already, you should receive instructions from your vet on how long your kitty should fast, etc. The following tips will minimize the stress you and your kitties feel during the process.
BEFORE the surgery:
The single most stressful part of the experience for my kitties was the noisy waiting room. So many scents! Big dogs barking! Luckily, my husband came with, and actually stayed outside with the kitties in their carrier until their names were called. If you don't have a friend who can come with, check in at the desk and let the staff know that you and the kitties will be waiting outside. This also minimizes their exposure to disease, since the waiting room is shared by sick pets.
AFTER the surgery:
Expect that your girl will take longer to recover than your boy. For boys, the surgery is a snap, and my little guy was running around playing later the same day. My girl, on the other hand, was in obvious pain, and had a hard time walking. Accept pain medication for your girl--she will probably need it. However, within a week my girlie was back to her normal self.
The other thing to prepare for is her appearance. My girl is a lightweight--she's pretty slender, and so the removal of her reproductive organs actually made her noticeably thinner! That was a bit shocking, but eventually the "meat on her bones" redistributed, so not to worry.
Truly, truly do keep in mind that you are doing the absolutely best thing for your babies. They will have much more comfortable lives, will be in less danger of certain cancers, and will not encounter the risks inherent to cats who mate. Good for you for doing this for them!
Post Script: For warning signs to watch for regarding adverse reactions to anesthesia, check out Kayte's comment on this post.
Fortunately, there is no need to worry. If you haven't already, you should receive instructions from your vet on how long your kitty should fast, etc. The following tips will minimize the stress you and your kitties feel during the process.
BEFORE the surgery:
The single most stressful part of the experience for my kitties was the noisy waiting room. So many scents! Big dogs barking! Luckily, my husband came with, and actually stayed outside with the kitties in their carrier until their names were called. If you don't have a friend who can come with, check in at the desk and let the staff know that you and the kitties will be waiting outside. This also minimizes their exposure to disease, since the waiting room is shared by sick pets.
AFTER the surgery:
Expect that your girl will take longer to recover than your boy. For boys, the surgery is a snap, and my little guy was running around playing later the same day. My girl, on the other hand, was in obvious pain, and had a hard time walking. Accept pain medication for your girl--she will probably need it. However, within a week my girlie was back to her normal self.
The other thing to prepare for is her appearance. My girl is a lightweight--she's pretty slender, and so the removal of her reproductive organs actually made her noticeably thinner! That was a bit shocking, but eventually the "meat on her bones" redistributed, so not to worry.
Truly, truly do keep in mind that you are doing the absolutely best thing for your babies. They will have much more comfortable lives, will be in less danger of certain cancers, and will not encounter the risks inherent to cats who mate. Good for you for doing this for them!
Post Script: For warning signs to watch for regarding adverse reactions to anesthesia, check out Kayte's comment on this post.
Saturday, February 21, 2009
How to introduce a new kitty to your cats
First: make sure all the cats are fixed! Introductions can really go awry if one or more of the cats have behavioral problems associated with being "intact" (plus, you don't want anyone getting pregnant!)
Next, the way you introduce the cats is really important. Start by putting your already-established kitty in a seperate but adjoining room to the new kitty (don't put new kitty in your established kitty's favorite room--she will feel displaced and jealous). They will most likely pick up on each other's scent, and may play with each other's paws under the door. Having them in the same house but different rooms triggers curiousity, while keeping the perceived threat-level down.
Keep a seperate litterbox, food, water, and something to scratch in the room where the new kitty is kept.
Also, rub each cat down with a towel, and place that towel in the other cats' room. This allows them to get used to each others' scent. They will also smell each other on you if you pet each frequently.
After they have discovered each other's presence, wait about 24 hours, then crack open the door between them. Let them make face-to-face introductions at their own pace. Make sure you are PRESENT when this happens, because even with this gradual introduction, they may become aggressive toward each other.
At the first meeting, give extra special attention and love to your established kitty. Don't pet new kitty or give her attention. It's likely that established kitty is already feeling territorial, and if she finds "her person" fawning over an intruder, it will just add to her negative feelings about this new family member.
Have a tin can (like a soda can) filled with coins, and taped shut, ready for their first face-to-face meeting. If any violence erupts, throw the can near the fighting kitties (not at them!). The sound will scare them and break up the fight so that you can get them to their respective areas of the house again--behind closed doors.
If there is violence at the first meeting, keep them in their seperate areas of the house for longer, and then try the gradual introductions again. They may never quite get along, but they will eventually learn to tolerate each other.
On the other hand, they may tolerate or even like each other after that first meeting--in which case, congratulations!
Next, the way you introduce the cats is really important. Start by putting your already-established kitty in a seperate but adjoining room to the new kitty (don't put new kitty in your established kitty's favorite room--she will feel displaced and jealous). They will most likely pick up on each other's scent, and may play with each other's paws under the door. Having them in the same house but different rooms triggers curiousity, while keeping the perceived threat-level down.
Keep a seperate litterbox, food, water, and something to scratch in the room where the new kitty is kept.
Also, rub each cat down with a towel, and place that towel in the other cats' room. This allows them to get used to each others' scent. They will also smell each other on you if you pet each frequently.
After they have discovered each other's presence, wait about 24 hours, then crack open the door between them. Let them make face-to-face introductions at their own pace. Make sure you are PRESENT when this happens, because even with this gradual introduction, they may become aggressive toward each other.
At the first meeting, give extra special attention and love to your established kitty. Don't pet new kitty or give her attention. It's likely that established kitty is already feeling territorial, and if she finds "her person" fawning over an intruder, it will just add to her negative feelings about this new family member.
Have a tin can (like a soda can) filled with coins, and taped shut, ready for their first face-to-face meeting. If any violence erupts, throw the can near the fighting kitties (not at them!). The sound will scare them and break up the fight so that you can get them to their respective areas of the house again--behind closed doors.
If there is violence at the first meeting, keep them in their seperate areas of the house for longer, and then try the gradual introductions again. They may never quite get along, but they will eventually learn to tolerate each other.
On the other hand, they may tolerate or even like each other after that first meeting--in which case, congratulations!
Thursday, February 19, 2009
How to train a new kitty to use the litterbox
Chances are, you might have found my blog through Yahoo! Answers. I enjoy contributing answers to cat-related questions. My expertise is in cat psychology/behavior/training, so from time to time I will post here answers I've given that have seemed to hit the spot!
First, and most importantly, put kitty in a bathroom with food, water, something to scratch, and the litterbox. You can also add a soft place for her to sleep, but take care that she doesn't use it as her toilet! Keep food/water/scratching post/bed far away from the litterbox. Make sure to remove anything else that's on the floor/anything breakable from bathtub our countertop, and close the toilet lid. If you have a shower curtain, remove it or loop it over the curtain rod, out of reach from kitty.
It's a good idea when introducing a kitty to her new home, to start her out in a very small room, such as a bathroom. She's terrified, presumably because she's in a totally new space, and your house is uber-big to her (even if not to you!). It sounds mean to keep a kitty in a small room, but it's actually very calming, because there is a finite amount of space to explore and become accustomed to. Spend lot's of time with her in there, so that she gets used to you, and has company.
In a bathroom, the litterbox will likely be the most attractive place to use the potty (linoleum/tile is no fun!). If she does use the bathroom outside the litterbox, pick her up (hopefully interrupting her potty-time) and put her in the litterbox. Any time she goes in the litterbox, give her a treat. And any time she scratches on the scratching post, give her a treat. Don't give her a treat at any other time--really let her come to associate treats with the behaviors you want.
Keep her in the bathroom for at least 24 hours (again, with frequent visits from you). After 24 hours has passed, leave the door cracked open, and let her explore the rest of the house in little excursions. After she's had a little time to explore, always put her back in the bathroom.
After about a week of this, you may see that she is becoming more and more comfortable with the rest of the house. Leave everything she needs in the bathroom for a little while longer, so that she doesn't get disoriented.
Eventually, you can start putting water/food/scratching post where you would actually like them to be in the house, but keep re-filling her food and water in the bathroom until you know she's found the other place you are putting out food and water for her.
First, and most importantly, put kitty in a bathroom with food, water, something to scratch, and the litterbox. You can also add a soft place for her to sleep, but take care that she doesn't use it as her toilet! Keep food/water/scratching post/bed far away from the litterbox. Make sure to remove anything else that's on the floor/anything breakable from bathtub our countertop, and close the toilet lid. If you have a shower curtain, remove it or loop it over the curtain rod, out of reach from kitty.
It's a good idea when introducing a kitty to her new home, to start her out in a very small room, such as a bathroom. She's terrified, presumably because she's in a totally new space, and your house is uber-big to her (even if not to you!). It sounds mean to keep a kitty in a small room, but it's actually very calming, because there is a finite amount of space to explore and become accustomed to. Spend lot's of time with her in there, so that she gets used to you, and has company.
In a bathroom, the litterbox will likely be the most attractive place to use the potty (linoleum/tile is no fun!). If she does use the bathroom outside the litterbox, pick her up (hopefully interrupting her potty-time) and put her in the litterbox. Any time she goes in the litterbox, give her a treat. And any time she scratches on the scratching post, give her a treat. Don't give her a treat at any other time--really let her come to associate treats with the behaviors you want.
Keep her in the bathroom for at least 24 hours (again, with frequent visits from you). After 24 hours has passed, leave the door cracked open, and let her explore the rest of the house in little excursions. After she's had a little time to explore, always put her back in the bathroom.
After about a week of this, you may see that she is becoming more and more comfortable with the rest of the house. Leave everything she needs in the bathroom for a little while longer, so that she doesn't get disoriented.
Eventually, you can start putting water/food/scratching post where you would actually like them to be in the house, but keep re-filling her food and water in the bathroom until you know she's found the other place you are putting out food and water for her.
Wednesday, February 18, 2009
What a comfort!
I've just been reflecting on my life, "pre-kitties" and now. Here are some of my favorite things about having feline members of the family:
* "Home alone" is never truly home alone!
* Vespers' favorite napping spot is on the same couch I inhabit while studying. It's a comfort to sense his fluffy grey presence right next to me.
* Having animals in the house reminds me that I too am an animal. I have a tendency to stay in my mind, thinking abstract thoughts...out of touch with the instinct to eat, play, stretch. My kitty companions are good reminders to be in my body.
* Having two little friends who trust me utterly, look to me for both cuddles and sustinance, and believe always that I am good is tremendously heartening!
* There is always a soft little bundle lying about who enjoys being stroked and lovingly talked to.
Mmmmm. What a life with these two precious creatures!
Monday, February 16, 2009
Sweet Spots
How does your kitty love to be cuddled, stroked or tickled? I am still finding new "bliss spots" that my cats love. Here's a list of their favorites:
- Neck massages
- Armpit massages (who knew?)
- Chest massages, segwaying to under-chin rubs
- Gently rubbing the base of their ear, under their fur
- Jagged strokes down the back with my fingertips (down, then up a hair, then down again)
- Lifting the skin on the scruff of the neck and shoulders and rubbing
- Light belly rubs
- Stroking the face with cupped hand, from nose to neck
What are some of your kitty's favorites?
Saturday, February 14, 2009
Tips for Managing "Bossy"
Does your cat's assertiveness border on domineering? Does she bully the other animals in your household? Is he so demanding that you find yourself frustrated and annoyed?If your answers to the Kitty Personality Quiz: Confidence (posted Sunday, Feb 1, 2009) were "(a)" or above, you might find that your kitty's personality is getting in the way of connection. Here are some tips for managing your over-confident cat.
Consistency
Your feline may seem to have a short-term memory, but when it comes to remembering how she won a battle of wills, cats have "elephant" memories. Remember that one time that you let her eat off your plate / lounge on the counter / meow until you gave her a treat? Your cat will never forget it. Keeping rules consistent minimizes behavior problems, though admittedly, not even consistency will create a kitty who always obeys all the rules. Allowing her to badger you into giving her what she wants or the relaxing rules just sets up a precident that she can win if she sticks to it long enough. Consistency, consistency, consistency!
Wear him out
My boy kitty, Vespers, is an alpha-personality. Though not pack animals like dogs, cats that live together will develop a social heirarchy. When the toys come out, Vespers becomes uncharictaristically aggressive toward Emily, my little calico. He growls when she approaches the toy, and does not mind landing on her when taking a flying leap. If I spend a good few minutes at the beginning of play giving him a good workout, he wears out a little, and that gives Emily room to participate.
Be the Alpha: Discipine
Speaking of the social heirarchy within a household, did you know that you are part of it too? Your kitty either sees you as ultimately in charge, or a submissive animal who she can boss around. Yes, you feed her, scoop her litter, and provide a home for her, but from her perspective, you may not truly be in charge.
Setting limits is essential to being recognized as the alpha-animal in the household. Are there surfaces in the house you prefer kitty not to be on? Are there behaviors that you don't find acceptable? Having a consistent (there's that word again) way to communicate "You've crossed a line!" is vital.
I know some kitty households that use a clap, hiss, or a snap of the fingers to communicate "No!". My brother in law gently taps his kitty's forehead, which startles rather than hurts her. My husband and I agreed from the outset that a sharp "No!" accompanied by a finger snap would be our consistent way to set limits with our kitties.
Unfortunately, Emily and Vespers sometimes get out of the habit of heeding our "No!" and finger snap. When that happens, it's necessary to create an unpleasant experience for them to associate with the verbal reprimand. Let me be clear: the unpleasant experience you choose for your disobedient kitty should be above all SAFE, and secondly--you guessed it, consistent.
We've chosen to spritz the offending cat with water from a spray bottle when "No!" is not enough. When we do this, we still give a sharp "No!' with finger snap, immediately followed by a spritz from the bottle (which I have hidden behind my back--stay tuned for why). After a few experiences with this sequence, our cats come to expect the spritz when they hear the "No!", and immediately amend their behavior. Even when I'm not carrying the spritz bottle, I keep my hand behind my back to give the appearance that it is there.
Wednesday, February 4, 2009
Tips for Drawing Out "Bashful"
My little calico, Emily, leans toward the shy end of the "confidence" spectrum. In her loving home environment she is a secure and fairly confident kitty, but her natural temperment falls in the "(b)" range of the answers in my quiz, Kitty Personality Quiz: Confidence (posted Sunday, Feb 1, 2009). It can be a challenge to connect with Emily, and has taken much patience and trial-and-error, for Emily has distinct preferences for how to, and how not to, interact.
Learn her preferences
For example, I've learned over time that Emily is not a lap cat, nor does she prefer to be held. My little girl likes to be very firmly stroked down the back, sometimes in a jagged, back-and-forth motion. She also loves having her face stroked, nose to ears. It's taken me a lot of time and unfruitful tries to figure out the kind of "cuddling" she prefers.
Take advantage of down-time
If your kitty is cuddle-resistant, approach her when she is asleep or resting. Lightly brush her whiskers to let her know that you are there, then gently stroke her neck, her back--explore what keeps her relaxing vs. what distrupts her restful mood. Cuddling with sleeping cats might not feel like much connection, but for an animal so finely-tuned for survival, allowing contact while sleeping--well, that's trust, and goes a long way toward bonding.
Play!
Another effective way to draw out a bashful cat and help him become comfortable with you is to entice him with play. Dangling a toy object of prey from a string and dragging it in jerks along the floor is nearly irresistable to even a shy kitty. Over time, bring the toy "prey" closer to you so that kitty becomes used to being near you, or even jumping on your lap to reach the object that is just out of reach! If your kitty is especially shy, look in the other direction while you tempt her with a dangling cat toy.
There are those cats who are either feral or traumatized, and thus may not become more comfortable with you via the means described above. The options available in that situation are beyond my scope, but many helpful experts have websites, books and even consulting services for just such difficult circumstances.
Learn her preferences
For example, I've learned over time that Emily is not a lap cat, nor does she prefer to be held. My little girl likes to be very firmly stroked down the back, sometimes in a jagged, back-and-forth motion. She also loves having her face stroked, nose to ears. It's taken me a lot of time and unfruitful tries to figure out the kind of "cuddling" she prefers.
Take advantage of down-time
If your kitty is cuddle-resistant, approach her when she is asleep or resting. Lightly brush her whiskers to let her know that you are there, then gently stroke her neck, her back--explore what keeps her relaxing vs. what distrupts her restful mood. Cuddling with sleeping cats might not feel like much connection, but for an animal so finely-tuned for survival, allowing contact while sleeping--well, that's trust, and goes a long way toward bonding.
Play!
Another effective way to draw out a bashful cat and help him become comfortable with you is to entice him with play. Dangling a toy object of prey from a string and dragging it in jerks along the floor is nearly irresistable to even a shy kitty. Over time, bring the toy "prey" closer to you so that kitty becomes used to being near you, or even jumping on your lap to reach the object that is just out of reach! If your kitty is especially shy, look in the other direction while you tempt her with a dangling cat toy.
There are those cats who are either feral or traumatized, and thus may not become more comfortable with you via the means described above. The options available in that situation are beyond my scope, but many helpful experts have websites, books and even consulting services for just such difficult circumstances.
Sunday, February 1, 2009
Kitty Personality Quiz: Confidence
1. When visitors come over, your kitty...
a) rushes to check them out.
b) hangs back, watching every move.
c) hides under the bed.
2. If another animal is present, your kitty...
a) stands her ground, growling.
b) takes her time getting acquainted, but with obvious interest.
c) stands down, usually running away.
3. When you approach your kitty, he generally...
a) actively greets you, or stays put and let's you pet him.
b) tolerates interaction, but on his own timetable.
c) appears frightened and shies away.
As with humans, there are infinite compenents of feline personality. One of the most readily obvious traits is how confident kitty is. Cats vary from swaggeringly self-assured to extremely timid and unable to tolerate interaction. Of course, any one cat can display both ends of the spectrum in different moods and situations, but think about your cat's overall personality as you consider the above questions. How your cat behaves in relationship to you, other animals and strangers (or people she rarely sees) is a good indicator of her overall confidence level.
Your kitty's degree of self-assurance may delight or frustrate you. You might have expected a inquisitive and friendly little friend, and wound up with a timid, shy recluse. Or, you may have wanted some unobtrusive background company at home, and ended up with an assertive, demanding little personality! It's important to recognize and respect your cat's unique temperment. Within the context of such respect, there are techniques you may use for making your secure cat less cocky (see Tips for Managing "Bossy" ), or your withdrawn cat more interactive (see Tips For Drawing Out Bashful).
a) rushes to check them out.
b) hangs back, watching every move.
c) hides under the bed.
2. If another animal is present, your kitty...
a) stands her ground, growling.
b) takes her time getting acquainted, but with obvious interest.
c) stands down, usually running away.
3. When you approach your kitty, he generally...
a) actively greets you, or stays put and let's you pet him.
b) tolerates interaction, but on his own timetable.
c) appears frightened and shies away.
As with humans, there are infinite compenents of feline personality. One of the most readily obvious traits is how confident kitty is. Cats vary from swaggeringly self-assured to extremely timid and unable to tolerate interaction. Of course, any one cat can display both ends of the spectrum in different moods and situations, but think about your cat's overall personality as you consider the above questions. How your cat behaves in relationship to you, other animals and strangers (or people she rarely sees) is a good indicator of her overall confidence level.
Your kitty's degree of self-assurance may delight or frustrate you. You might have expected a inquisitive and friendly little friend, and wound up with a timid, shy recluse. Or, you may have wanted some unobtrusive background company at home, and ended up with an assertive, demanding little personality! It's important to recognize and respect your cat's unique temperment. Within the context of such respect, there are techniques you may use for making your secure cat less cocky (see Tips for Managing "Bossy" ), or your withdrawn cat more interactive (see Tips For Drawing Out Bashful).
Let Kitty Know You're There
Even the most secure, confident cat is...well, skittish. Our feline friends are by nature sensitive to miniscule changes in the environment, and are programmed to react for their own protection. I noticed that when I approached to pet my boy kitty, Vespers, while he was napping, even the most gentle touch of my hand startled him.The answer was simple: Whiskers! A light brush against Kitty's whiskers let's him know that something is in his immediate proximity, without triggering the defense response. Now, when I want to pet my napping Vespers, I first brush my hand lightly against his whiskers (or sometimes the fine hairs of his longish coat). Then, when I stroke his back or give him a light neck massage, he's been properly prepared for contact and doesn't even open his eyes.
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